This was related to what I refer to as the latchout relay. The engineers could not answer my question right off and more digging was needed. #HORIZON ECLIPSE PELLET STOVE CONTROL PANEL LABEL PLUS#Sent me an email with a huge amount of great data that got things rolling, plus a note to call him if I needed anything.Ī couple snags came up and he put me in touch with their engineering dept. I happened to get hold of the Manager (Called at lunch) and he was a wealth of knowledge. These folks had sold products to the pellet stove industry for years back in the early days. The second company I called was PRECISION TIMER COMPANY Made a few calls and scored some good info. When I started on the controller for the Prodigy 2 I made a list (similar to what I outlined earlier) The internet is a magical window on information and the number of companies out there ready and willing to help are nearly endless. I don't have all the knowledge of these various components, but do have a handle on what I wanted to accomplish and a fairly good knowledge of electrical components. Manufs did not have a handle on the parts/ service end as so many parts were "off the shelf" stuff, and the gitterdone types like widdle O'l me would go "HEY NO PROBLEMOĪnd pick up a relay for a few $ at the supply house, plug it in and save BIG TIME.Īll this said, I was taught by my father, from a very early age, that if you don't know something dig deeper and find out. Remember, back in the 80's these same stoves had controls that are nearly identical to what we are talking about here. With a little"Squaring and jigging) and a few fairly inexpensive parts you can construct a controller that's built like a tank. Many stoves still have controls available, but prices can reach $600 for a board, plus the new board still has the weak links they had when new (In many cases) #HORIZON ECLIPSE PELLET STOVE CONTROL PANEL LABEL WINDOWS#The stove is a beast of burden, the basic parts should last a loooooooooooooooong time.Ī beautiful pellet stove with bay windows and basically in great shape that's 20 plus years old and a bum control board is a BOAT ANCHOR. This is old fashioned hard wired kick AZZ stuff, not tiny micro (made in China) electronics. Next once we have all the little parts, we need a can to stuff it in. Many stove control boards will not survive a shorted fan motor, and the fuse will blow, but the board went away just before the fuse left town. Phase speed controls the same way, with a much higher rating than neededįuse everything at a reasonable limit so if a part dies the fuse can blow and not hurt any control parts. Then we gather the various components with more design overkill than the factory to make the parts work.Ĭycle timers rated for between 10 and 20 amps (Waaaaay overkill) but will survive a train wreck. With this data we can start building a basic plan if you will on paper to make the various components do what we want, when we want and how much we want. The original builders took care and spent engineering $$$$ to get the thing to work originally, OR AT LEAST WE HOPE SO We need to use the original design criteria as a base to work from. What is the off time on the auger (heat range) ? What is the run time when the auger is on? What sort of cycle times are needed on the auger motor? Some run a constant speed, as in the exhaust fan (some are variable with heat range other are run at line voltage) How long do these components need to operate? How much amperage do they draw under normal operation? What are the components that we need to run? How much do we need to happen when it's happening. To get where I am today on this it went like this. I will say this to any prospective builders. Pretty hokie wiring, but quite good enough to test the set up. In the pix you can see the meter hovering around 70 volts and the blur of the cooling fan shows its moving. I need to get my VOM and check the big whit running and see what it's doing while the factory board is still there.ħ0 volts will start the motor OK from a dead start, but we definitely gotta have that low limit resistor in as a safety. You go below 70 and the poor Widdle motor falls on it's Azz I can see why the factory spec'd 70 colts minimum on the fan. The cool panel meter reads good with my digital VOMĪlso got some good numbers on the pot after setting the voltage at a steady 70 VoltsĢ5 K ohms is whats needed for a low end resistor across the control unit terminals. They work, but 2 of the 5 in the lot were flakey in places.īut I was able to get some good numbers on my VOM Wired it up on the bench with a handy draft fan from the little Whit (spare) I had enough goodies to do a test run on one of the phase speed controls tied in with the new panel meters.
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